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The schematic shows the wiring layout of the engine’s electrical system, and is the key to understanding how to make the T-Bird run like new. If you weren't going to have a breaker why wouldn't the wire to the top relays just connect directly to the starter solenoid post? Is it possible some had a breaker and some didn't? Maybe the breaker was popping when it shouldn't so the factory just eliminated it and replaced it with a post? Am I missing something? Mysterious stuff.The 1956 Ford Thunderbird Wiring Schematic was once an enigma to automotive enthusiasts, but with the help of modern technology it is now a piece of cake to repair and restore these classic automobiles. One single terminal junction block, no breaker. I looked up front and it looks like what I have exactly matches the wiring diagram manual, not the shop manual (see below). It seemed wrong not to have any kind of circuit protection. I had previously only looked at the Wiring Diagram Manual and the lack of a breaker is why I added 50A fuses to the PCBs. However, the "1966 Ford Thunderbird Shop Manual" does indeed show a 60A breaker where the other manual showed the junction block. It shows the battery + terminal connecting to a post on the starter solenoid which also connects a jumper wire to a single terminal junction block that then goes through some connectors and eventually becomes the blue wire in question (color 722 on the drawing). I have the "1966 Thunderbird Wiring Diagram Manual" and it definitely does not show a breaker. Gee, thanks, Wally, now you're making me do research and learn stuff.
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Sorry for the excessive detail I really want you to be successful with it.
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If nothing seems awry and you know all the devices work then you can try using the switch on the console, knowing that any issues at that point are with the switches. Once you have it hooked up and are reasonably confident that everything is correct I'd start by briefly tapping each of the buttons (either on the board or the remote) to make sure the associated device bumps (lock, unlock, etc.). The coil is again a smaller gauge, the two large gauge wires go to the appropriate solenoid valve(s) and the pump. On the relay plugs for the deck and top relays the power in comes from the bus (the screw terminals). On the relay plugs for the lock and panel relays (lower current) the "coil" wire is smaller gauge while the wires for power in to the relay and out to the motor are larger. On the left relay bank, lower right (deck close) - this gets its supply from the screw terminals, not the relay plugs: Violet - deck unlock coil signal (12V here turns on the relay) On the left relay bank, lower left (deck lock): Maybe this will answer your last question. Here are the connections that expect a yellow wire on the left bank. Note that the picture is what I'd consider upside-down, it shows the front of the car toward you. That blue wire straight across the middle comes right off the battery with no fuse or breaker so it deserves considerable respect. On page 23 it shows the relay arrangement and you can see where the bus wires are that go to the screw terminals. If you have a loose yellow wire it's almost certainly supposed to be on one of the relay plugs.